I learned to surf. I am learning to surf, rather. It's something I've always wanted to try, and now that we live in Hawaii it seemed ridiculous not to be doing it. Since I mostly talk about but rarely get around to actually doing these sorts of things, R took it upon himself to arrange a lesson for me as a birthday present. This made me happy. Surfing made me happy. It was fun...and surprisingly easy. The repeatedly paddling into oncoming waves was not easy. That was hard. Really hard. I ached for days. No, the actually standing up to ride a wave - that was the bit that surprised (and pleased) me. Or, I surprised (and pleased) myself by being able to do it. Suffice it to say, there were good feelings.
Now let's talk boards. San Fransisco based,
Two Birds Fly makes boards. They are cute - decorated with art from local artists. They are also green - carved from Biofoam and equipped with bamboo fins. This is good.
Now, I would like to be surprised (and pleased) by finding something comparable in Hawaii. Extra surprise (and pleasure) points awarded if I can afford it once I find it.
p.s. I first learned about these beauties over at
green{goody}. Head that way...it's a good one.
2 comments:
That surfboard is gorgeous! I would love to learn to surf, but the hate of myself in swimwear totally overrides any lust for the water and surfing. Well done!
What a beautiful board! I miss surfing, the last time I surfed was on vacation in Mexico, I had just conceived Clover but didn't know it yet.
You're so lucky to have warm water close by! I used to surf quite a bit (I have a wetsuit and a board) but it's so hard to get motivated when the water is ice cold, the waves are usually harsh and pounding, and it's about a 45 minute drive to the beach.
My husband just got back from surfing actually, he's a real surfer, I just like to pretend sometimes :) Sounds like you are a natural though, keep it up!
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